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Pruning Trees

A guide to pruning native trees.

Guidelines for pruning trees.

  • Although it may occur in conjunction with the removal of introduced invasive plants or other undesired vegetation, pruning within forests should be minimized and selective.
  • Branches that pose a safety hazard should be pruned.
  • No cleats should be used in climbing healthy trees.
  • All cuts should be made close to the trunk or parent limb without cutting into the branch collar.

Depiction of a branch and where to make a cut just above the root collar, located close to the main branch at the intersection where new branches grow from main branch. There is a dead branch on the left side, and a live branch on the right side.

US Forest Service, Northeastern Area.
  • Avoid slitting or peeling the bark by precutting all branches that are too heavy to handle.

On the left is a main branch with a small branch. Illustrates how a small branch can be pruned with one cut using hand clippers. On the left is a larger branch. Illustrates how three cuts should be used on larger branches to prevent bark splitting. The first cut is shallow, on the bottom on the branch to be removed, and out from the branch collar where the two branches connect. The second cut is out farther than the first cut and fully through the branch. The final cut is a full cut through the branch next to the branch collar.

US Forest Service, Northeastern Area.
  • Cuts and wounds should not be treated with wound dressing.
  • Any visible girdling roots at the base of a tree’s trunk or across an exposed root should be severed.
  • Any pruned limbs or related debris should be spread thinly on the ground to be left to decompose, used to create brush piles for wildlife habitat, or fly-chipped on-site.
  • Heavy equipment should be used only in extreme situations, for instance, when a crane is necessary to safely remove a large limb or the entire tree. If it is necessary to use heavy equipment, protect trees and shrubs by staying as far away as possible (at least outside the drip line) to prevent soil compaction and trunk scarring.

What to Look For

  1. Forked top. If left as is, this will cause the development of two leaders, thus wasting growth energy. Later, as the two leaders get larger, the fork may split, damaging the tree and potentially creating a safety hazard.
  2. Parallel branch. When two branches grow parallel, they may eventually grow wide enough to grow together. This creates an unstable connection between the two branches that may split and break. 
  3. Branch growing at a sharp angle. When such a branch becomes larger, it may rub on the trunk, split out, or even cause rot to develop by giving water a chance to collect.
  4. Temporary branch. These are low-growing branches that in most cases die off when shaded by higher branches. They can be removed as the tree ages if low-growing branches impede other uses around the tree base. 
  5. Crossing branches. These interfere with each other’s growth and create bad form.
  6. Water sprouts. These are new branches that sprout from the trunk or existing branches, sometimes in clusters of new growth. These can be pruned to concentrate energy use in the trunk and main stems. 
  7. Basal sprouting from the root crown, also known as suckers. Where they grow in shade, they drain energy from the tree.

A drawing of a tree that illustrates each of the features to look for, numbered to correlate with the above list.

Natural Lands.

Monitoring Suggestions

  • Assess plant health post-pruning, looking for signs of disease